How to Celebrate Christmas in Abu Dhabi

With temperatures sitting firmly around the 25 degrees Celsius region, Abu Dhabi is a welcoming destination for some winter sun – especially for those of us living in rather wetter climates!

Its sub-tropical and dry weather allows for those attractive and pleasing bright blue skies in temperate heat practically all year round. The majority of the little and infrequent rainfall happens during winter, from November until March. Expect winter nights to be around 13 degrees Celsius.

As Abu Dhabi is mainly a Muslim country, Christmas Day is not top of their calendar events, however many locals do actually celebrate it. It is a normal working day in UAE, but most Christians and westerners in Abu Dhabi book the day off to celebrate. Just because there is no snow, it does not mean there are no festivities. The magical season is kicked off with special tree lighting ceremonies at lots of resorts.

As the largest of the seven emirates, Abu Dhabi is one of the fastest growing tourist destinations in the world. As the best time to visit is winter, it is becoming more and more popular with westerners to spend their family Christmas in Abu Dhabi for a truly different and memorable festive celebration.

On Christmas Day, head out to Desert Island Resort & Spa by Anantara for the festive gift hunt which is especially organised for children – which is also free! Other resorts allow you to indulge in Mediterranean summer settings, sunbathing around palms and swimming pools whilst being serenaded to festive jazz music – perhaps the ultimate juxtaposition. To keep the smaller people entertained, festive characters will be around too. Not forgetting the festive food either – the best bit of Christmas! Enjoy huge buffets of amazing festive fare at the resorts.

Traditional carols are everywhere in Abu Dhabi. Visit the Beach Rotana Hotel where there are carols every day until actual Christmas day. Melodies of the soothing and festive inspiring songs fill the air, getting everybody in the mood for the big day. For the little ones, Father Christmas himself makes a visit from the North Pole. The hotel even has its own Gingerbread House Festive store where you can grab any last minute presents. The shop also donates Dhs2 from every item purchased to Operation Smile charity –  an ideal way to give something back this Christmas.

The city of Abu Dhabi is decked out in all the glories of Christmas thanks to its colourful decorations. Around the huge palace like shopping mall, decorations, huge trees and ice rinks make it extremely Christmassy. Some even have Santa making appearances.

Take a step away from the huge modern malls, and visit the Swiss Christmas Market. In this hot desert area, this is the closest you’ll get to a European traditional Christmas market with little log cabins full of gifts. Dotted with plenty of sparkling lights, carols and trees, get away from the sun and forget you’re in the desert.

Another popular way to celebrate over the festive season for the younger generation is to take the opposite approach and head into the desert. The milder winter weather makes for the best time to go on adventures such as dune bashing (driving 4x4s) and desert safaris tours are really popular at this time of year. Seeing as Abu Dhabi is a mainly desert state there is plenty to explore here. Camp in the dunes in groups and celebrate the festive season, decorate a palm tree, build a festive looking sandman, sing carols around the campfire, or ride Rudolph the red-nosed-camel – get imaginative.

When it comes to New Year, there is plenty to do in Abu Dhabi from happening parties to romantic dinners for two.  If you want to get away, head to a resort, taking advantage of their festive rates and hibernate. Resorts in Abu Dhabi are so huge you can stay within them and dine in different restaurants and venues each night. The Islamic New Year, Hijri New Year’s Day is actually on 4th November.

Even with its warm sunshine, beaches and different religion, Abu Dhabi is still a special place to spend Christmas, or just get away for some winter sun.

Escape to Yas Island

In recent years, the UAE has propelled itself into the forefront of technological advancements and grown into a formidable economy. Its renowned cities have become infamous in their ambitious ideas to grow into metropolises of the future. Towering modern skyscrapers are more like incredible works of architectural art. There is a feeling that there is no idea too extravagant or expensive that cannot be achieved by the big thinkers of the UAE.

Abu Dhabi is fast becoming a hotspot for tourists from across the Middle East and all over the world. Fifty years ago it was just a small fishing village; today its total area covers almost 87% of the country, making it the largest emirate in the UAE. As one of the most modern cities in the world, there is now a countless amount of activities to do in Abu Dhabi and many of them are found on Abu Dhabi’s most popular island, Yas Island.

Traditionally Yas Island was used with the regions pearl trading industry, today the island has under gone a US$36 billion dollar development and was named the world’s leading tourism project in 2009. The 25km square island has become one of the biggest attractions in Abu Dhabi, with a whole range of incredible developments to explore; there is no shortage of things to keep you occupied on a visit.

Over the past few years the island has been beamed across the globe, showcasing its main attraction. The spirit of motor racing in Abu Dhabi has grown and grown ever since the creation of the famous Yas Marina Grand Prix Circuit. The state of the art F1 centre and track was opened in 2009 in front of over 50,000 people. It has since become one of the highlights on the F1 calendar with the likes of Sebastian Vettel and Lewis Hamilton taking home the much converted crown.

The best time to visit the track is of course during the F1 race which usually falls during November. If you can’t make it in time for the race, the complex is always a fantastic place to visit during the rest of the year. Visitors are able to go in and explore the behind the scenes areas which are usually only reserved for F1 teams and get a sense what it is like to be there on race day. It’s a great opportunity to walk in the same footsteps as some of the world’s greatest drivers. For those looking to go one step further, you have the chance to experience what it is like to actually be on the track. Feel the raw exhilaration and power of a high performance car as you are driven around the famous circuit or if you are feeling up for it, take the wheel yourself and see what lap times you can post. It really is a fantastic way to take in all the incredible F1 circuit has to offer.

Motor sport on Yas Island doesn’t end at the race track. Walk just a short distance from the F1 complex and you will come across an enormous and extravagantly designed bright red building. Inside is the world’s largest indoor amusement park, Ferrari World. Nestled under a roof that could fit 7 football fields and cover nearly 17,000 Ferraris’, is a whole world of entertainment for all ages. The iconic supercar company have created an amusement park with over 20 rides. Opened in 2010 the park plays tribute to the beginnings of the Italian company and displays some of the most beautiful cars Ferrari as ever produced.

The attractions inside seem endless and range from a relaxing virtual tour inside the Maranello factory to see the concept of Ferrari design to an adrenaline fuelled roller coaster which, at 240kph, is currently the fastest in the world. The Italian theme is continued throughout the park with Italian restaurants and shops to explore all over the building. Ferrari World makes for a great day out for all the family especially the petrol heads and is sure to impress on any visit.

As with much of the country, the weather on Yas Island typically hot throughout most of the year. With many attractions being outside in the heat, it is always a good idea to split them up with something cooler. Luckily enough the island has the perfect place to do so. Yas Waterworld is spread over 15 hectares and contained 43 fantastic rides and multiple swimming pools. The park is the biggest of its kind in the Middle East and is also home to 4 kinds of ride that have never been seen before. Apart from the fantastic water slides, the park also has a unique pearl diving attraction which displays the role pearl diving played in the history of the UAE. Inside you even have the chance to make your own pearl jewellery. One attraction inside has been pulling in visitors from the extreme sports world. Bubbles’s Barrels is an amazing surfable standing wave. Water is shot up a surface creating a three metre wave, the largest of its kind in the world. Thrill seekers have the chance to experience what it’s like to be within the barrel of a wave.

With what is noticeably a non-stop work ethic towards developing this small part of Abu Dhabi, you are never to be found wondering what to do on Yas Island. Away from all the huge developments there are some great opportunities to get outside and try something more natural. Yas Links Golf Course is a great place to be in the fresh air and get in 18 holes. If you have never played before, the club puts on some great courses for beginners.

The stunning Yas Marina is a hot zone of activity most days of the week. Get out on the water and try stand up paddle boarding around the Marina, a great way to get up close to some of the beautiful yachts moored in the area. An even better option is to take to the skies on board the Seawings sea plane. From the air you will have an unrivalled view of the island including a bird’s eye view of the F1 track and gorgeous blue marina.

Yas Island proves to be a great escape from the CBD of Abu Dhabi, there is so much to do here to keep you thoroughly entertained and judging on the speed of development here, it won’t be long until you book a second trip to find out what’s new.

Top tips for travelling during Ramadan

Ramadan Mubarak! The Islamic holy month of Ramadan runs from the end of June to the end of July this year – and if you're planning on travelling to a Muslim-majority region during this time, you’re in for an utterly fascinating experience. In many places, including the UAE, Morocco, Tunisia, Indonesia and Egypt, daily life changes dramatically this month, giving visitors a chance to see a whole new side to these regions.

1. Know the basics
Ramadan is a lunar month dedicated to sawm, or fasting, one of the five pillars of Islam. From sun-up to sun-down, the faithful abstain from food, drink, tobacco and sex to concentrate on spiritual renewal. After sunset, there's a euphoric iftar (sunset meal that breaks the fast), followed by a very late-night suhoor (the pre-dawn meal). Yet Ramadan isn't all daytime discipline and nightly parties: it's a time of generosity and zakat, or charity, another of the five pillars of Islam. Fasting isn't easy, so everyone slows down during the day – but you'll also notice people going out of their way to extend small kindnesses.

2. Plan ahead
Like any holiday, Ramadan affects business as usual and this definitely isn’t the best time to attempt a whistle-stop sightseeing marathon. Many venues operate with limited hours and staff, so try to book accommodation, transport and tours before you arrive. Plan your daytime meals in advance – international hotels will often carry on serving food, as will a limited number of restaurants (you’ll probably need to reserve a table). Packed lunches are also a good option, although you’ll need to make sure you have somewhere private to eat them. Always bring a bottle of water with you when you’re out and about, but be careful about where you swig from it. Finally, remember that alcohol will not be widely available, even in the evenings.

3. Shift your schedule
It’s all about the nightly festivities during Ramadan. Traditions vary from region to region, but everyone breaks fast with iftar at sundown, then there’s often a long night ahead of socialising with family and friends, followed by the late suhoor meal. In Morocco, streets come alive with light displays, music and offers of sweets at every intersection. While life pretty much goes on as usual in Turkey during Ramadan (or Ramazan as it's known here), look out for the iftar tents where people flock to break their fasts; these are often subsidised by the local municipality, offering cheap or free food and covering parks and pavements with tables. In the Gulf states, the often very glamorous Ramadan Tents are popular places to spend the night snacking, smoking shisha and playing games. Wherever you are,  non-Muslims are almost always welcome to join iftar or hang out in the tents until the small hours.

4. Know the local law and customs
Check the laws of the country you’re travelling in before you arrive,  as some places are much stricter than others about public observance of the fast. Non-Muslims aren’t expected to keep the fast themselves – according to tradition, even Muslim travellers are exempt.  But at best, eating or drinking in front of people who are probably fasting is bad form, and at worst you can find yourself slapped with a hefty fine. It’s a good idea to dress more conservatively than you would normally, too.

5. Get in the Ramadan swing
This month is traditionally a time of great hospitality and generosity, so go ahead and accept Ramadan sweets or invitations to feasts, parties and family gatherings. You can always return the favour with gift boxes of food or by practising zakat, and giving to a local charity. It might take a while for your body clock to adapt to the local rhythms of quiet days and staying up all night, but you'll have a far more pleasant and interesting experience if you go with the flow. Twitter can help you stay on top of Ramadan timings this year.

Hepatitis B

Hepatitis is a general term meaning inflammation of the liver and can be caused by a variety of different viruses such as hepatitis A, B, C, D and E. Since the development of jaundice is a characteristic feature of liver disease, a correct diagnosis can only be made by testing patients’ sera for the presence of specific anti-viral antigens or antibodies.

Hepatitis B is a serious and common infectious disease of the liver, affecting millions of people throughout the world. Infection occurs very often in early childhood when it is asymptomatic and often leads to the chronic carrier state. More than 2 000 million people alive today have been infected with HBV at some time in their lives. Of these, about 350 million remain infected chronically and become carriers of the virus. Three quarters of the world’s population live in areas where there are high levels of infection.

Susceptibility is general. Only people who have been vaccinated successfully or those who have developed anti-HBs antibodies after HBV infection are immune to HBV infection. Persons with congenital or acquired immunodeficiency including HIV infection, and those with immunosuppression including those with lymphoproliferative disease, and patients treated with immunosuppressive drugs including steroids and by maintenance haemodialysis are more likely to develop persistent infection with HBV.

Following acute HBV infection, the risk of developing chronic infection varies inversely with age. Chronic HBV infection occurs among about 90% of infants infected at birth, 25-50% of children infected at 1-5 years of age and about 1-5% of persons infected as older children and adults. Chronic HBV infection is also common in persons with immunodeficiency.

There is no specific treatment for acute viral hepatitis B. Hepatitis B is a viral disease, and as such, antibiotics are of no value in the treatment of the infection.

The use of adrenocorticosteroids in the management of acute, uncomplicated hepatitis B is not indicated because they have no effect on the resolution of the underlying disease process, and may increase the rate of relapse. Early treatment of acute hepatitis B with anabolic steroids may result in the development of persistent infection. Corticosteroid therapy is only to be used in patients with chronic active hepatitis who are symptomatic, HBsAg negative, and who have severe histologic lesions in liver biopsies.

High endemicity areas include south-east Asia and the Pacific Basin (excluding Japan, Australia, and New Zealand), sub-Saharan Africa, the Amazon Basin, parts of the Middle East, the central Asian Republics, and some countries in eastern Europe. In these areas, about 70 to 90% of the population becomes HBV-infected before the age of 40, and 8 to 20% of people are HBV carriers.

Churches and Synagogues of Istanbul

Istanbul is full of historical and cultural riches, and with economy car rentals this fabulous city can easily be accessed, maybe as the termination of an exciting European road trip. Combine it with the last leg of an Orient Express outing and you have the perfect Agatha Christie style romantic holiday.

Istanbul is particularly rich in churches of various shapes and shades, because of its thousand year history as capital of the God-obsessed Byzantine Empire. After Christianity became the state religion in the 4th century, when Constantine converted from paganism, churches started sprouting up everywhere and this process continued until 1453, when the Ottoman Turks conquered the city and started adding minarets to existing structures and converting them all into mosques.

It’s easy to get around this sprawling city in a car because, although it covers such a large area, the roads are good and well maintained and there are plenty of side streets to park in. Many churches in the city may not be much to look at from the outside but they more than make up for it in the glittering displays of candle-lit icons that frequently dominate the interior to create a truly mystical atmosphere. It’s a great treat to enter one of these contemplative spaces after a day out on the hectic and noisy streets of this often overly energetic city.

Although church construction largely ceased after the conquest, some continued to be built outside the then limits of the city, for example at places like Beyoglu and along the farther shores of the Bosphorus. So a tour of the churches here is not only educational and aesthetically pleasing but will take you to scenic parts of the city with fabulous views as well.

Quite a few new churches were built in the 19th century, close to the foreign embassies, such as the British Embassy Church and Armenian-Catholic Surp Yerrontutyan Church, both on the European side of the Bosphorus.

The synagogues of Istanbul, too, are as old as the churches here, the oldest having been constructed in 318AD, before Christianity became the state religion. During the Latin occupation of the city, when Crusaders made a detour here on their way to the Holy Land and stayed for a century, many synagogues were pillaged or converted into churches. But during the Ottoman period their numbers actually increased. Jews from Spain and elsewhere in Europe fled here to escape persecutions such as those of the 16th century Spanish Inquisition.

Unlike synagogues in Europe, those in Istanbul do not have any distinctive architectural style but are non-decorative and generally built into courtyards, with a plain rectangular shape. Many are still active and serving the Jewish community of Istanbul to this day.

A motoring tour of Istanbul’s churches and synagogues is just one attractive idea for getting to know this amazing and multi-faceted city. Travelling by car is also ideal for a tour of the stupendous land walls, and the less imposing but still beautiful sea walls are best viewed whilst driving along the coast road which skirts Seraglio Point, with the walls on one side and the glorious Bosphorus and then Sea of Marmara on the other.

Culture in Tel Aviv

Tel Aviv is an energetic and somewhat gritty city, and traces its roots back only to 1909. That predates the establishment of the the State of Israel by a few decades, but still makes it virtually a new city and atmosphere-wise about as far away from the ancient walls of Jerusalem as you can get. Its early planners envisaged a garden city and the first Hebrew-speaking city, although today English and myriad other languages reverberate through its dense patchwork of streets.

Many visitors to Tel Aviv come and go with a stroll along the Tayelet Lahat (seaside promenade) or a dip in the Mediterranean as their chief souvenir, but the waters here run deeper than that: as a religious center the primacy of Jerusalem is beyond contention, but for most everything else, there's this city of 400,000 people that can sometimes feel much bigger than that.

Part of the reason for this is the outsized cultural life. The Tel Aviv Performing Arts Center is home of the Israeli Opera and world-class musical and dance performances. TAPAC, as it's also called, opened in 1994 and a newer wing houses the renowned Cameri Theater. Many productions feature screened simultaneous translation into English.

The Tel Aviv Museum of Art showcases works by greats like Picasso and Van Gogh and also has an impressive range of temporary exhibits featuring both Israeli and international artists. The main museum is located next to the TAPAC. The Helena Rubenstein Pavilion for Contemporary Art is a separate location.

Israel maintains something of a cultural edge where contemporary dance is concerned. If you have the opportunity to take in a performance of the Batsheva dancers or any other troupe at the Suzanne Dellal Centre for Dance and Theatre, don't miss it. The location in the heart of charming Neve Tzedek, Tel Aviv's first neighborhood (not counting ancient Jaffa) alone makes it worth your time.

Yes, Tel Aviv is an international city and has the artistic muscle and Madonna moments to prove it. But it's also an Israeli city, and there are plenty of cultural venues that highlight both Israeli history and Jewish heritage. An excellent place to start is the Land of Israel Museum (Eretz Israel Museum), which has fascinating exhibits of ancient coins, less ancient postage stamps, archaeology, ethnography and more.

The museum is made up of a series of themed pavilions linked by walkways. Don't miss the pavilion dedicated to ancient glassmaking, and another that illustrates the role of the Baron de Rothschild in the history of Palestine and Israel.

The Beit Hatfutsot Museum of the Jewish People is located on the campus of Tel Aviv University in Ramat Aviv. A short taxi ride from central Tel Aviv but definitely worth the trip for the detailed exhibits which emphasize the continuity of Jewish culture throughout history.

Military history buffs will enjoy the Israel Defense Forces History Museum, located right next to the HaTachana marketplace.

Get an eyeful of Bauhaus architecture along Bialik Street and especially tree-lined Sderot Rothschild (Rothschild Boulevard) and catch a whiff of history at the Hagana Museum at no. 23. This small museum traces the early history of the Israeli military.

Beit Dizengoff, the simple home of Tel Aviv's founding mayor at number 16 Rothschild. It's where David Ben-Gurion declared the establishment of the State of Israel and is now home of the Independence Museum.

Three unusual holidays in Egypt

A holiday to Egypt can be a truly breath taking, unforgettable experience; one that will make you want to go back every year! Here’s three very different holidays to Egypt that you can share with loved ones for a holiday that will leave you with memories that last a lifetime.

Cruising the Nile

You cannot visit Egypt and not have a Nile cruise as part of your holiday. The Nile – the longest river in the world – runs through ten countries! Since ancient times, the people of Egypt (and other countries) have depended heavily on this river.

As a tourist, if you wish to enjoy a calmer, more pleasant experience on the Nile, you could cruise the river in a small, wooden boat known as a felucca. It’s only capable of taking roughly a dozen people or so but it’s very popular with tourists. As part of the Nile cruise, you can (and should) arrange for a package that includes visiting the Great Sphinx of Giza and Egypt’s largest pyramid, the Pyramid of Giza.

How About Some Scuba Diving?

Yes, don’t be surprised. Most people associate the name of Egypt with the aforementioned pyramids but you’ll be surprised to know it’s a great spot to do scuba diving. For example, the Red Sea is a phenomenal place to do some scuba diving; perhaps one of the best places in the world to enjoy this activity. You’ll witness amazing reefs as well as be touched by wrecks and experience emotions at both ends of the spectrum.

The visibility and clarity is quite good as you witness the remarkable diversity of life in the waters. You may even catch a glimpse of the largest fish in the world – the whale shark. Don’t worry though, despite the name ‘shark’ and being absolutely colossal, they are gentle creatures that will glide effortlessly by and if you miss it, you’ll want to kick yourself! Try not to gasp if you see one; it’s not a very good idea underwater, but nobody can blame you if you do!

Romantic holiday for two

Egypt is a wonderful place to take a romantic break for two. Sharm el-Sheikh on the Sinai Peninsula is just the place for a truly intimate experience. You could enjoy some fabulous weather during your stay and be treated like a king and queen! There are plenty of high-end hotels full of staff ready to cater to your every need. If it’s pampering you’re after you won’t have to look far.

No matter what you choose, these are three very different holidays to Egypt that will leave you wanting more, so much so that you’ll probably want to come back year after year.

Free Things to Do in Abu Dhabi

Standing its ground as the second most expensive city in the Middle East, Abu Dhabi can certainly be a costly place to visit. 

1. Explore the area - Abu Dhabi is rich in sites that allow tourists to gain an insight into the culture of the city. Free guided tours of Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, one of the largest mosques in the world.  The breathtaking mosque sits on land the size of five football fields, whilst the columns shine with marble panels and semi-precious stones.

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

2. Shopping - If you can avoid buying anything, shopping in Abu Dhabi can be an interesting free experience, with plenty of souks to explore. The fish market at the mina end of the city can make for a great early morning walk, with the locally caught fish being on display. An Iranian souk can also be found near the fish market, which boasts an interesting range of plants, pots and other homeware items that are brought across the Arabian Gulf to be sold as they are unloaded by Iranians. The gold souk next to Madinat Zayed shopping centre, the carpet souk in the port area and the fruit and vegetable souk close to the Central Post Office on Airport Road give an insight into the daily life and culture of the city. 

Iranian souk

3. Get active - The Jebel Hafeet Mountain is the third largest in the United Arab Emirates, and whilst it has a road from the bottom to the top that you can drive up, it is also possible to walk all the way to the summit of the mountain too. The peak of the mountain offers panoramic views of the country and the walk up provides a mixed range of flora and fauna to admire.

Jebel Hafeet Mountain

4. Appreciate the art - Located in the middle of downtown Abu Dhabi, the Cultural Foundation is the artistic centre of the city. Open daily, the centre has a range of performances to catch with exhibitions and lectures being free. The Manarat Al Saadiyat is an arts and cultural centre that features four gallery spaces that often provide great free exhibitions as well. Showing works by flourishing national and international artists, the Ghaf Gallery is a villa-based gallery that is slowly becoming one of the most established in the city, which can also be explored for free. The Barakat Gallery specialises in ancient art, with displays including antiquities from Africa, Asia and Europe. Whilst every item is on sale for those who wish to make a purchase, the galleries can be explored at no cost. 

Manarat Al Saadiyat

5. Watch a camel race - Taking place in the revolutionary Al Wathba Racetrack stadium every weekend is the highly competitive camel race that locals flock to watch. If you have a 4x4 available, you can join in by driving alongside the camels for the best view. The race is one of the most traditional sports in the United Arab Emirates, however in recent times robots have replaced jockeys, giving the race a futuristic feel. Other races that can be watched for free are the annual dhow races in February, the Red Bull Air Race in March, the powerboating races in November and jet skiing races which take place throughout the year.

 Al Wathba Racetrack

6. Visit the museums - The Emirates National Auto Museum displays one of the world’s most diverse collections of vehicles from giant Range Rovers to Mercedes in every colour of the rainbow, providing a unique visiting experience. Whilst entry is free, occasionally you may be asked for a small donation to enter the museum.

The Emirates National Auto Museum

Damascus, Syria: Middle East luxury special

Damascus is the centre of the world. Just look at a map! It's exactly at the crossroads of Asia and Europe. That is why, in the days of the Arab empire, it was the richest city in the world. All the Silk Road traders stopped here. Everyone!

Modern Damascus looks very dull – all 1970s apartment blocks and scruffy electrical shops. The Old City, however, the ancient walled enclave around which it has grown, is something else. Dating back more than 4,500 years, it is the oldest continually inhabited city in the world. It has the only street mentioned by name in the Bible – Straight Street, where Saul of Tarsus went after his famous conversion on the road to Damascus.

It exerts such an irresistible allure, you find yourself stopping every few steps just to drink in your surroundings: its cheerfully mingling Muslims and Christians, its Roman ruins and magnificent Great Umayyad Mosque, its winding alleys and anonymous wooden doors opening on to courtyards of lemon trees, its black-and-white tiled caravanserai inns, its steamy hammams, and its vast souk where men selling rosebuds, spices, silver and brocade stand behind the same wooden counters as their great-grandfathers did. It is mesmerising – and utterly safe, too, at any time of day. There is no irritating hassling from shopkeepers. It's another world – if no longer the crossroads of the world. And in  a few years it will, inevitably, have changed for ever.

A decade or so ago, there was nowhere for visitors to stay in the Old City – nowhere with any degree of luxury, anyway. Then, in 2005, five years after President Bashar al-Assad  came to power, extending a newly welcoming hand to tourists, the first boutique hotel opened. Exquisitely converted from a 19th-century house by the same Madame Fixit, May Mamarbachi, the eight-room Bait Al-Mamlouka, with its courtyard, fountain and enchantingly tiled bedrooms, attracted a stream of eager visitors from the start. Today you have to book months ahead. Of the dozen similar little hotels that have opened, the latest, where I am staying, is the delectable Al Pasha, a palace of birdsong, rosewood furniture with mother-of-pearl inlay, and the constant, cooling sound of trickling water.

Restaurants and cafés now dot Straight Street. Souvenir shops and art galleries have opened. Syrians who for years worked abroad have begun returning to capitalise on the city's blossoming as a tourist destination, among them an interior designer who has restored the sprawling Farhi palace to exactly how it looked when the artist Frederic Leighton painted it in 1874. That will open as a seriously luxurious hotel at the end of next year. And the most useful thing I can tell you is simply – go now, while you can walk streets that still look as they did when Agatha Christie, another eager visitor, stayed in the 1930s.

The National Museum alone could occupy a day. It is revelatory. There, I discovered whole civilisations I'd never heard of before. In a section about the Eblan, for instance, its entrance marked by an ancient life-size alabaster figure of an indignant-looking pop-eyed man in a woven skirt, are cuneiform tablets dating from 2,250BC.

I tear myself away to see the ancient Umayyad Mosque. Shrouded in the obligatory rented abaya (a garment which confers an interestingly self-righteous feeling), I enter a massive marble courtyard where, unexpectedly, people lounge around on the ground and children play. A group of Iraqi refugees, faces etched with trauma, pass. Inside, Muslim worshippers push prayers on slips of paper into the tomb that purportedly holds the head of John the Baptist. Also located here is the Treasury from Damascus's glory days a windowless room on stilts that could be accessed only by ladder.
Opposite the mosque, a ruined Roman Temple of Jupiter marks the entrance to a warren of shop-lined streets. Every step offers a vignette. Passing a barber's shop straight out of the 1950s, I see a man turn to his barber with the same pop-eyed gaze I saw on the alabaster figure at the museum. Bad haircut? In the Mustafa Ali art gallery, a cat lolls against an open-air sculpture to wash itself. On Straight Street, I descend to the Chapel of Ananias where Saul/Paul miraculously had his sight restored – underground now, but at street level in Roman times.
En route back to the hotel, I push at a wooden door and find myself in the latest outpost of the Dubai-based high-fashion Villa Moda group. On one floor, the brocade-makers who in 1952 made the fabric for our Queen's wedding dress have an outlet. "We still make designs we made 200 years ago," whispers an elderly weaver. Nearby, opposite the Hammam Ammouneh (women from 8am to 8pm, men from 8pm to 8am) is a stall piled with rather more affordable olive-oil soaps. Definitely go now.

Women's Travel in the Middle East

The Middle East can seem like an off-limits destination to some female travelers, but there’s no reason why women should miss out on visiting this fascinating country, rich with history, a unique culture and beautiful scenery.

Yes, there are vast cultural differences in attitudes to women, and these are countries where women are not usually seen travelling alone. But with a little common sense, and a respect for cultural and religious differences, you can still travel and stay safe in the Middle East.

The place of women in Muslim countries depends on the degree of Sharia Law operating in each country, but in general, it is unusual for women to be seen travelling alone without their families, and women have rigidly defined roles.

In Saudi Arabia, for example, women are covered up most of the time and are not allowed to drive cars. In general, women are held in high esteem, but their place is extremely regimented and conservative. Women are expected to be reserved and behaviour otherwise will make you stick out for all the wrong reasons. But this doesn’t mean that you will treated badly in Middle Eastern countries – just show some respect for local traditions and culture and you will be respected in return and left alone.

One shock most women will find is that in countries like Iran, women don’t go anywhere alone, and are never seen alone in public, only out with their families or in groups of other women. So you will stand out, and may feel a bit strange sitting alone in a café or restaurant, which are usually male dominated.

Safety Advice

• Firstly take the same precautions you would take in other countries – don’t go to isolated places after dark, and be wary of ending up alone with strange men.
• You will also need to be sensitive of cultural differences, and be careful not to be misinterpreted – a simple ‘western’ gesture such as fixing the gaze of a man or smiling could be seen as a sexual advancement. Of course if someone is talking to you, maintain eye contact! The best advice is to be more reserved than you normally would, and avoid being openly friendly.
• The chances are you won’t have to worry about being hassled or harassed by men – as it is considered rude to approach a woman sitting alone and force your company on her without invitation.
• If you do feel uncomfortable in any situation, feel free to be rude, and make a fuss – they will not want the attention and should leave you alone. Don’t don’t feel like you have to respond if someone starts talking to you, and do leave if someone makes you feel uncomfortable.
• If you are blonde, you will attract more attention than dark haired women, so maybe bring a hat or headscarf to cover up if you find yourself being hassled.
• Traveling alone or with another female will make you more vulnerable – sometimes it can help to make a male ‘buddy’ in your hostel if you don’t want to venture out alone. Be aware that if you are out with a man, you may be addressed through him, and that it will be assumed you are married. In many cases, it’s best to pretend that you are.
• Avoid public displays of affection.

Places to Avoid

There are no places that are off limits for women, but solo female travelers may be more comfortable visiting the countries that employ a less strict version of Sharia Law. Saudi Arabia employs one of the strictest interpretations of Sharia.

Women are not allowed to drive, they are under the guardianship of male relatives at all times, and must be completely covered in public. In Kuwait, Yemen and Iran women must also be completely covered.

Countries like Egypt may be more relaxed towards females travelling alone, but many women can still feel uncomfortable by the hassling they may get in Cairo and the more touristy areas - usually this will only be to sell you things, but some can be quite persistent, so try to ignore any unwanted attention, and show a fake wedding ring, or tell men you are married to try and stave off any unwanted advances.

If you have blond hair especially, you will be approached, so consider covering your head, wearing a hat and wearing your hair up. Even in the main cities, do not walk around alone at night.

Wadi Rum - The Valley of the Moon